Sunday, December 25, 2005

More links...

Organic farming opportunities in the US, www.wwoofusa.org
Organic farming opportunities in New Zealand, www.wwoof.co.nz
Food security and social justice, www.thefoodproject.org
Home renovations for people who need it, www.rebuildingtogethersf.org
Blind people being people, www.lighthouse-sf.org
Favorite San Frnacisco Climbing Gym, http://touchstoneclimbing.com/mc

Art
Poets with some alternative rock, www.theweakerthans.org
Now popular but always excellent, www.theshins.com
Sunday morning music, www.ironandwine.com
Favorite folk ladies, www.begoodtanyas.com
Jazzy and lovely, www.ryanmontbleau.com
I think she's neat, www.pollyhall.com
Dave's photo blog, http://pleasedontshoot.us

Thursday, December 22, 2005






Here's the latest from the field. After a short stint in Loreto and an aquaculture farm homestay, I'm back in San Carlos with one month left. We presented preliminary research results last week that went quite well. Since then, I've met with a number of whale watching operators to discuss kayaking potential in the bay. A professor of the University of Denver is here and has been teaching us how to use GIS (geographical information systems) so my map making dreams are slowly becoming a reality.



I bought my ticket for Mexico City. My friend Sasha and I are going to spend the week between exams and xmas in del jefe before returning to the bay area. We will be staying with our friend Dan who is a native chilango and who I know will be an extraordinary tourguide and host. Today, he had to fly home because of some reoccuring health problems and it was so sad to see him go. But I am even more excited to visit him soon.

Today I got to see a different section of the bay while we researched potential ecotourism sites to watch marine mammals including sea lions and dolphins. We saw so many dolphins- it was incredible. They surrounded our boat and a few of them actually jumped. I still find it hard to believe that dolphins are reral animals adn not just a fabrication of Sea World or Lisa Frank. After that, I got the pleasure of visiting San Carlos' police station to confirm my student visa (actually unneccesary paper but better safe than in jail). And then we headed to aerobics class which is combination jazzercise, kick boxing, colombian salsa and yoga. We sweat a lot. Through that class, we've met some of the most empowered women in town and gotten pretty good at knowing our derecha from our isquierda. On the way home, we splurged on tortas (imagine the perfect hot sub sandwich) and sopes (of the open faced sandwich variety topped with! goat cheese) followed by a heavenly dessert of hamonsillos (goats milk caramels).

This week I have some papers due on pollution sources and marine mammal captivity issues so I should hit the books. I hope everything in California Alta and back east is going well. Even here the days are getting shorter, can't imagine how it is up north.

Love always, Phoebe

Well, the last week here has been a lot of fun and I thought I'd give you all a little update. This week we went on a camping trip around the tip of the state of Cabo. We stayed at two different turtle monitoring stations and helped researchers conduct their work. Because sea turtle eggs are commonly poached, these centers transport reccently built nests to protected areas. This involves night patrols walking miles of extraordinary beaches looking for mother turtle tracks pointing towards vulnerable nests. We also monitored more mature nests and helped tortugita hatchlings surface and brought them close to the shore. I think I handled about 300 baby turtles in one night. They're really adorable and eager to swim out into the tormenting Pacific where they have about a 1% chance of reaching maturity.

We spent the third and fourth day at another amazing oasis. We hiked and swam in a beautiful granite walled pool. Imagine the swimming hole at Glen Alpine but three times bigger and warmer. There was a sweet waterfall and a 'natural waterslide'. We climbed up to high altitude (6000 ft) pine forests and also found groves of yellow trees, an endangered species that clings its roots to limestone and cracks in granite. Interestingly, very few tourists or locals spend time in this oasis, maybe because it is a protected area and has no amenities.

Along the way we visited Todos Santos, Cabo San Lucas (we call it little America), San Jose del Cabo, Santiago and La Paz. I'm starting to feel like I know Baja Sur pretty well. My friend Maxine and I are starting to plan our week long break. Hopefully we'll find some horses, maybe go snorkeling, speak lots of spanish and read books. Yesterday we discovered a new taco stand. It is delicious and everything is 10 pesos, they make their own tortillas and serve the most delicious coffee I've ever tasted. It's run by a couple whose home kitchen opens onto a quiet side street. We were lucky enough to be a little disoriented on San Carlos' backroads to stuble upon it.

Sundays nights here, students take turns cooking for the group. Tonight four friends and I made a medeterian feast. We made sweet cous cous, greek salad, barbequed chicken, roasted bell peppers and onion, fresh bread, spinach spread, humus, tabuli and mango lapies. We cooked from noon to six and everything worked out beautifully. However, now i need to get to my homework. My goal for the week is to learn new chords on the ukelele and finish reading myBerenstein Bears book in spanish.

Hopefully everyone is doing well with all your pursuits. Mom and Dad, sorry I missed you guys, will call again soon. Will, what's this I hear about Austrailia? Miss you all.

tortillas full of love, p

hello lovely family and friends,

well ive now been in mexico for ten days and figured it was about time to send an update. seeing as we're pretty dang busy and have limited access to the internet, ill be sending a big news email fortnightly-ish but still hope to corrsepond with everyone indivudually.

so here's the scoop- this place is amazing! the campus is beautiful, all the buildings are palapas, white stucko buildings with thatched palm rooves and we're about 30 m from the water. its in the 90's daily but we get some nice breezes. dont worry- im wearing sunscreen and a hat. the food is delicious- lots of rice and beans and tortillas of course, good veggie options too.


the town of san carlos is an interesting place. its about a 10 minute walk from here to the center. ive gone in for some field trips to talk with shrimp shellers, see an Independence day parade, and go to the disco and danced my socks off with friends, townsfolk and professors. it is definately a small and impoverished place but full of wonderful people. the taco stands are delicious. im practicing my spanish and certainly improving although some people just dont understand me. we're teaching englihs classes for the community that are going very well.

the past two days, ive been working with 5 other students and a researcher on conducting monthly water quality tests. lots of time on the panga collecting samples using the GPS and about 8 hours in the lab today. our data is looking pretty good and soon we'll use GIS to extrapalate and make maps of currents and pollutant distribution. hopefully this experiment will encourage the local cannery to run its filters to decrease nutrient levels. i also went on a 2am sea grass transplanting operation, lots of fun on the tidal mudflats.

ive gotten pretty good at identitfying the local turtles species by shells. tomorrow we are going on a 3 day camping/ turtle capture expedition. we'll do late night shifts to watch nets and hopefully we'll get to measure and tag a few black or olive ridley turtles. while collecting water, a juvenille bottle nose dolphin swam along with our boat, pretty incredible. also spotted some cormerants diving from 30 ft +. there is a tidal wetland just outside of our fence so we get loads of birds- osprey, ibis, pelicans, frigot, great blue and tricolored herons, comerants, and a whole lot more that im learning to identify.

the professors, Paco, Hector and Edgar, are quite characters. In a few days we pick our directed research topics and am torn between an encotourism project and a survey of childrens attitudes toward the community and environment. my classmates are some pretty cool kids. some of my best friedns are Max, a cool girl from Ontario who knows a lot about forestry, Sasha from Berkley who is studying the HIstory of Science and Social Justice, we joke that she is my twin because she too has a ukelele and has parents named Joan and John. There's Dan who'l from Mexico city who is teaching me salsa dancing and spanish and i help him with english. Pete is from NORTH HAVEN, CT and is a whale lover and excellent frisbee player. And Berta, who is an intern from La Paz who knows everything about black turtles and is so sweet. Although we have been booked nearly all day every day, we fit in a little bit of ukelele on the porch or voll! eyball, frisbee, or hamock time. On our sunday off we went out to the town bridge and swam in the estuary. We talked to lots of local kids and plunged off the bridge into clear deep water. it was so nice to cut loose and get salty. weve been spending lots of time in the field which is so condusive to my learnning.

so yes, everything is as wonderful as i hoped and thank you all for being so supportive. i miss everyone very much and would love to know how you are doing so write me!

besos, xox, phoebe


p.s.- if you go to here there should be a 'Mexic: News from the Field' which will tell you what we are up to.